Image Courtesy: Tailor Anthony Sinclair fits Sean Connery for one of the suits he will wear in the film ‘From Russia With Love’, 1963.
“Bespoke Suit” is perhaps the most commonly misused term in today’s online retail fashion industry.
First of all, any “Made to Measure” suit available for online purchase is NOT a True Bespoke Suit;
It’s simply a “made to measure” suit.
I don’t care if it’s sold by Zegna, Cerrutti or Scabal;
Until and unless you have a master tailor taking your measurements, feeling your torso with his bare hands, envisioning his craft to accommodate your every curve and imperfection…
If that process hasn’t taken place, then it’s simply, NOT a True Bespoke Suit.
The construction of a A true Bespoke suit is a form of art that’s comprised of the passion within an artisan….
a Master Tailor.
A true Bespoke Suit is Measured, Cut and Crafted by one person, the same person, your tailor. From the beginning to the end, he will see through his craft.
Sadly, the term “Bespoke” is easily mistaken for “made to measure” suits.
The truth is that a “Bespoke” suit is ‘made to measure’ but not all ‘made to measure suits’ are “Bespoke”.
Allow me to explain the difference in the most easiest way possible.
There are three necessary steps which qualify a suit as “Bespoke”:
- Your body must be measured by your tailor.
- Your suit fabric must be cut by your tailor according to your body and measurements.
- Your suit must be hand crafted and constructed by your tailor using full or half canvas interlining (not fused) and your suit will be constructed using a premium, natural fabric such as wool or wool blended with other natural fabrics.
Suit canvas interlining is typically manufactured using real horse hair (sometimes camel hair), and a bespoke suit should be constructed using canvas interlining only.
The reason for this is that with time, the horses hair takes shapes of your body and molds the suit into a perfect fit.
There are typically two types of canvas constructions of the interlining: Full canvas interlining and half canvas interlining.
- Full Canvas Construction: A full canvas suit contains canvas interlining on the total front area from the chest down to the waist of the suit jacket.
- A half canvas suit contains the canvas interlining only on the top portion (chest to upper ribs area) of the suit jacket. Typically, the reason for one to opt for a half canvas bespoke suit would be due to the cooler nature of a half canvas suit; the lesser the horse hair, the lesser the heat in the suit which would allow more breathing room for the fabric.
Due to the attention to detail and labor intense nature of a true bespoke suit; they are typically very expensive.
Now a days, a much more affordable alternative to bespoke suiting is purchasing a made to measure or semi-custom (“made to order”) suit online or from your neighborhood tailor.
Of course, it’s not the same thing as a bespoke suit but when you compare the amount of money you would save, it’s definitely a smart option if you’re on a budget.
Now having said that, having a True Bespoke Suit made for yourself is a beautiful and unique process which every man should experience at least once in his lifetime.
Walk the walk, talk the talk and rock the look!
Legend and Stick
A brand focused on a Selective Collection of Suits, Shirts and Fine things in life for the Sartorial Man.